John Begin of Valley Flowers, a wholesaler in Ottawa, also prefers to deal with fair-trade farms. He says the farms, most of which are in South America and Asia, not only offer a better product, they are also better organized, possibly because of the stringent regulations they need to follow in order to be deemed fair trade. "When a new supplier calls," Begin says, "I always ask, 'Are you certified?' "

Supply is still limited, however. Only 35 per cent of Leckman's stock comes from fair-trade farms, but the goal is to reach 100 per cent in the next few years. "If consumers walk into chain stores and ask for certified flowers, change will happen."

Floral designer Scott Graham of Toronto bills himself the only florist in Canada so far to go all-certified, all the time. His company, Ecoflora, offers not just fair-trade and organic flowers, but eco-friendly wrappings and containers as well. Your organic bouquet will include organic greenery, and be wrapped in re-usable paper and compostible cellophane; a funky seasonal flower arrangement will come in a glass, ceramic or wooden container that either meets international fair-trade standards, or is made by a local artist.